1st May is a Bank Holiday here, so I took full advantage of this and did not open the shop. My good friend Yvonne Payne had arranged to take a group of us out for a hike through Kritsa Gorge, and duly arrived to collect me from the bookshop at about 10a.m.
Leaving Les in the comfort of his bed in the bookshop, we drove over to Kritsa and waited in the car park for the rest of the group to arrive. The weather was glorious and the view of the village as always was breathtaking...
As the time to set off approached, the other members of our merry band started to arrive and be introduced to each other. I was delighted to find that my old mate Cindy was to be joining us, along with 2 Steve's - henceforth known as Steve the Bug and Steve the Flower - a lovely retired botanist called Rosemary, and Ann - a good friend of Yvonne and Alan's. we were also joined by a couple who were here on holiday, and I'm ashamed to say I've forgotten their names!!
So, it was decided that rather than make the 20 minute trek on the road to the beginning of the gorge, we'd all hop in the cars and drive over. In the blink of an eye, Alan managed to turn the wrong way out of the car park, and was heading down the one way street the wrong way! Not an auspicious beginning, however with a few 'sorries' to the other drivers who had followed him, and some amazing gesticulations from supportive (?) wife Yvonne, we turned around and headed to the gorge via the legal route.
And on parking up, this was the first sight of the gorge...
It doesn't look so much from here, but I had a lot to learn at that point!
Instead of following the gorge from the bottom up, Yvonne and Alan were taking us on their preferred route, which is along the outside , then drops down to the gorge at the point where a footpath carries on to Tapes village...more on that later.
As we began to climb, the views were spectacular...
Our path took us up above Lato, and it was interesting to chat with Yvonne about Rodanthe from her book and get a feel for how the Freedom or Death fighters could have held out so long against the Ottoman armies...then you look around, and the modern world falls away. All that is left is the sound of what Steve the Bug called the Capricorn Orchestra - a melodic mismatch of bells from the huge herd of goats, and a myriad of birdsong.
The trail was one which had existed since ancient times as a route from Lato, through the mountains and up onto Katharo plateau and Tapes. The cobbled base was clearly visible, and though ancient easily navigable.
In my mind's eye, I could see the lookouts posted up in the surrounding hills, with commanding views of all the routes below, and out to the sea...there was no way an unfriendly force could get to Kritsa or beyond without having a 'welcome' planned!
After a while, the pathway was lost for several meters, and then it levelled out before dropping down toward the gorge base. It was here we found ourselves amidst the goatherds, and the shepherd took them back from the groves where they had been devouring carob, and put them in their compound beside his house.
He had some rather alert and large dogs, so discretion dictated a shot from distance!
The two Steves were already in their element, looking for bugs and flowers as we walked along in the warm, bright sunlight. Being passionate about their subjects, we were all at some point chasing something as we went along! Steve the Flower actually takes walks onto Katharo Plateau and can be contacted via his website: - or you can learn more about the flora of our wonderful island from his other site : both well worth a visit and the links are at the end of the blog
We began to pass some of the other walkers who had come up from the Gorge and were going back along the route we had already done, and it was with some trepidation I started to notice just how hot and bothered they seemed!
Now the descent began and the landscape began to change, with a harsher, more rugged appearance and more green vegetation and shrubs. The pathway was still easy to follow however, and Steve the Flower spotted an orchid under the trees, which delighted him. Having the benefit of him, Rosemary and Steve the Bug ensured that we all learnt from our experience in ways we probably would not have expected. As the path wound down the hillside, it became clear just how high, and low we would be during the day.
slowly we made our way to the base of the gorge, and got ready to begin the walk back down to the outside world. Suddenly, through breaks in the trees, there was a brilliant, almost blinding whiteness. This was the gorge itself! Gallons of water hurtle down through the gorge during the rains, and all along the bottom were smooth rounded stones, reflecting the rays of the sun with stark brightness that almost made you look away.
Yvonne told me that it was at this point that you could either continue up to Tapes, or turn out to follow the route we had come down. I imagined Rodanthe from Yvonne's description, bouncing along the narrow path at the side of the riverbed in the panniers on her Grandmothers' donkey...not something I'd want to do methinks!
And now the hike began!
If you would like to know more about the insects we saw and get Steve the Bugs' view of our trip, check out his blog at
http://cretenature.blogspot.co.uk/
and you can follow Yvonne Payne, author of 'Kritsotopoula Girl of Kritsa' in her blog too! http://kritsayvonne.blogspot.com/
And there's Steve the Flower's web for the flower lovers among you:
http://www.cretanflora.com
or arrange a walk on Katharo Plateau -
http://www.exploringkatharo.com
I'll be back with more thrills, spills and anecdotes soon!
Leaving Les in the comfort of his bed in the bookshop, we drove over to Kritsa and waited in the car park for the rest of the group to arrive. The weather was glorious and the view of the village as always was breathtaking...
So, it was decided that rather than make the 20 minute trek on the road to the beginning of the gorge, we'd all hop in the cars and drive over. In the blink of an eye, Alan managed to turn the wrong way out of the car park, and was heading down the one way street the wrong way! Not an auspicious beginning, however with a few 'sorries' to the other drivers who had followed him, and some amazing gesticulations from supportive (?) wife Yvonne, we turned around and headed to the gorge via the legal route.
And on parking up, this was the first sight of the gorge...
Instead of following the gorge from the bottom up, Yvonne and Alan were taking us on their preferred route, which is along the outside , then drops down to the gorge at the point where a footpath carries on to Tapes village...more on that later.
As we began to climb, the views were spectacular...
The trail was one which had existed since ancient times as a route from Lato, through the mountains and up onto Katharo plateau and Tapes. The cobbled base was clearly visible, and though ancient easily navigable.
In my mind's eye, I could see the lookouts posted up in the surrounding hills, with commanding views of all the routes below, and out to the sea...there was no way an unfriendly force could get to Kritsa or beyond without having a 'welcome' planned!
He had some rather alert and large dogs, so discretion dictated a shot from distance!
We began to pass some of the other walkers who had come up from the Gorge and were going back along the route we had already done, and it was with some trepidation I started to notice just how hot and bothered they seemed!
Now the descent began and the landscape began to change, with a harsher, more rugged appearance and more green vegetation and shrubs. The pathway was still easy to follow however, and Steve the Flower spotted an orchid under the trees, which delighted him. Having the benefit of him, Rosemary and Steve the Bug ensured that we all learnt from our experience in ways we probably would not have expected. As the path wound down the hillside, it became clear just how high, and low we would be during the day.
slowly we made our way to the base of the gorge, and got ready to begin the walk back down to the outside world. Suddenly, through breaks in the trees, there was a brilliant, almost blinding whiteness. This was the gorge itself! Gallons of water hurtle down through the gorge during the rains, and all along the bottom were smooth rounded stones, reflecting the rays of the sun with stark brightness that almost made you look away.
Yvonne told me that it was at this point that you could either continue up to Tapes, or turn out to follow the route we had come down. I imagined Rodanthe from Yvonne's description, bouncing along the narrow path at the side of the riverbed in the panniers on her Grandmothers' donkey...not something I'd want to do methinks!
And now the hike began!
If you would like to know more about the insects we saw and get Steve the Bugs' view of our trip, check out his blog at
http://cretenature.blogspot.co.uk/
and you can follow Yvonne Payne, author of 'Kritsotopoula Girl of Kritsa' in her blog too! http://kritsayvonne.blogspot.com/
And there's Steve the Flower's web for the flower lovers among you:
http://www.cretanflora.com
or arrange a walk on Katharo Plateau -
http://www.exploringkatharo.com
I'll be back with more thrills, spills and anecdotes soon!
