Links, Legends and Love...

 As promised, I want to close out the road trip with some links and views.  I've put some links to various sites at the bottom of the blog, including one for the Eklektos page on Facebook - please feel free to jump in and have a look at some of the photos there that I haven't used in the blog, as well as all the other images...

The legend of Zeus and the caves has many versions, as with most mythology, but I like the version I was told by one of our Cretan friends...
Now, Chronos was the father of the Gods - a Titan, the youngest child of Uranus and Gaia (the goddess of the earth/mother Earth) and a terrible being - quick to anger and slow to forgive. He murdered his own father and the blood that  fell in the sea, causing it to foam, and from this foam emerged the beautiful goddess of love, Aphrodite.  Chronos took his sister Rhea as his wife and queen. An oracle warned him that his own son would kill him, just as he had killed Uranus, and so Chronos determined that there would be no living children.

Whenever Rhea gave birth, Chronos swallowed the child, until Rhea despaired.  When her last child Zeus was born, she tricked her husband and gave him a stone instead of the child.  She hid Zeus in the caves on Mount Dikti in Crete, in the care of Amalpha the goat , where he was raised in secret, way from the eyes of his father.

Eventually, Zeus grew to manhood, and returned to challenge his father.  according to Cretan legend, Zeus and Chronos fought, and Zeus killed his father, slitting him open from throat to groin.  as he died, the children he had eaten - Zeus brothers and sisters, all fell out rom inside alive - he had not chewed his food! 

This, the Cretans say, was the beginings of the Gods of Olympus - ,Demeter, Hades, Poseidon, Hera and many others... 

As a child, I loved the ancient myths, and I also loved films, so the tales of Jason and the Argonauts, Troy, the Odyssey, all these were burnt into my imagination and began my love of fantasy - Dragons, wizards, and magic..To go down into this ancient cave, and see how the rocks had alsmot human shapes: the impression was awesome!  But I have another love - history and these caves and the plateau have an abundance of it!

Archeologists excavating the caves have found signs of an altar, and many ancient artifacts were unearthed, which suggest that the cave waas a holy place of worship and offering for centuries - you'll be able to read more on this through the links.

But the plateau for centuries was the bread basket for the province - the supply of water which allowed the growing of crops and raising of animals, made this whole plateau a vital part of Crete.  As such, every invader wanted to control it, and the Cretans were neverof a mind to allow it!

There are weighty tomes on the history of Crete and its invaders, but there are also some new works about to be published that will give a new, more exciting read.  As they come out, I'll blog about it all next year, but watch out for books by Yvonne Payne...

Being involved with a bookshop means that I have been able to read a lot about this place that we call home, and the internet is a valuable source of other material, but to actually go and experience this land is now vital and paramount!  To feel the cool air as you descend into the mythical early home of Zeus: touch stones worm smotth by the hands of ancient worshippers and priests: to see the coins still being thrown into rock pools by todays' visitors...atmospheric, etherial, almost spiritual emotions made this trip something I will always treasure. 

 Meeting Yorgus in his Kafeneon, watching his elderly wife making coffee, with fingers blackened by work and fire...seeing the flashing pride of a man, now bowing with age, as he tells you of his life, his family and his pride in both...Yorgus - proprietor, mountain man of Crete, fighter, farmer and father - a rare privelige to meet such a man.

At every turn there was something - a view, a sight,another wonderous moment.  It's hard to express what has moved me so much - so hard to portray to you, dear reader what a magical place this small piece of this wonderful island is  to round a corner and see, amid the ruins of ancient windmills that drew water from the ground, a small, stunning chapel, brilliantly white in the sun...perhaps I have piqued your curiosity - perhaps you should come and see for yourself...

Yes, this was a day, but a day of contrast, contradictions, wonder and amazement...but such is Crete - that's why we call it home, and why we are so determined to stay on this island that has stolen our hearts and souls.

"I hope for nothing. I fear nothing. I am free."

Nikos Katzanzakis 

 https://www.facebook.com/EklektosBooks
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cronus
www.explorecrete.com/crete-east/lassithi-plateau.html
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oropedio_Lasithiou

www.greeka.com  › Crete  › Lassithi  › Sightseeing

www.lonelyplanet.com/.../natural-landmarks/dikteon-cave

en.wikigogo.org/en/49347

 https://www.facebook.com/groups/lassithilovers 

  

Appointment with Zeus...

Here is the final instalment of out journey!

Having said Adio to Yorgus and settled back in the car on the square in Mochos, we headed out of the town towards the Lassithi plateau Travelling along the valley floor, we looked out at the majestic mountain ranges that surrounded us, and at the road we had to travel.  some amazing sights met us along the way.

As we began to climb into the mountains, we began to get some idea of the way we had come and the wild beauty of our adopted home.  although the land is mostly dry in the summer heat, the staggering power of nature to enhance and flourish in theis climate is easily visible.  And Man's efforts to try to tame this island were also self evident as we looked back towards the convent and the village far below.

As we sttod in the lay by taking these pictures, another car pulled in to admire the panorama laid out.  The couple who were from Russia, fell into converstaion with Bjorn and John.  the lovely lady spoke marvellous English, which was very lucky, as none of us can speak any Russian!  We shared the joys of what was laid out before us, and then walked towards our seperate vehicles.  It was then that I spotted something on the hillside above us.  Using the zoom on my camera, it became clear it was some working traditional windmills!
To my delight, bjorn informed us that the road we were taking would pass very close to them, so we decided we would investigate...

As the road wound its way up the steep mountain, I found myself wondering at the enormity of what had been done - in history, the farmers, shepherds and holy men who traversed these treaherous mountains with only goat paths to follow:  the Andartes against the Ottomans and other invaders:  and in more recent times, the men who strove to cut roadways through this imperial landscape...amazing feats of courage, endurance and imagination!  What inspiration for us all to take from the population of this 5th largest island of the Mediterranean.

suddenly, we were right beneath the windmills!  As we rounded the next bend in the road, we saw a signpost about Homo spaien Village, so we took the turning...

Imagine our surprise at finding this signage on the cafe at the car park as we clambered out of the car...

Quite an impressive statement of intent.  However...now, I'm probably a bit cynical, and while I realise that everyone has to make a living, there's a limit to even my suspension of belief!  While John went to peruse the shop and cafe, and Aase went to find the ladies, Bjorn and I wanted to take a closer look at the windmills (which were happily pumping water down into a trough in the car park.)

We found a sign pointing the way, and walked through a tunnel cut into the rock, with olive trees set into the roof as if shoring it up.  as we rounded the corner, we could see the entrance to the Homo Sapien Village through some gates to our left, and the balcony floor of the cafe to our right.  The path continued past a small sentry-like box, up to the windmills, so we turned that way...

Suddenly, a balding Greek spoke to us  and smiled: 'three euros each please.'  We stopped and looked at him, a little puzzled.
Bjorn smiled and spoke up for us.  'No, we aren't going to the village, just the windmills.'
'Three euros please.  Same price.' , replied the man (still smiling, but it started to look kind of waxy!)
'Oh, sorry we misunderstood', replied Bjorn, and we both in unison turned and walked back down the tunnel!

As I say, I'm all in favour of the entrepreneur spirit, but there was no signs to say there was an entrance fee for the windmills, and it was all VERY carefully set up.  however, we got our pictures from the car park instead, and then left!

 

 

Once more we continued up through the mountains, passing the ruins of mills as we reached the pass into Lassithi plateau.  There was a cafe there, but seeing the large coaches parked, we decided to continue on. I had been warned that most of the windmills that the valley floor was famous for (it's nickname was Valley of A Thousand Windmills) had gone:  I wasn't prepared to see the sadly neglected and derelict sight that we saw.  there are maybe one or two windmills still in working order, and those few are either at cafes, or at the approach to the Dichtian Cave.
We had arrived.  We decanted from the car in the park at the base of the climb, and prepared for the walk.  there is a new route, but Aase felt we should use the older, more original pathway, so we did.  The path is made of cobbles, laid into huge steps.  In many places, the rocks have worn smooth with the passing of so many feet, and there is evidence of the erosion of time and weather.  After the first few metres, we saw the donkeys that offer to take visitors up to the cave site, but we declined, and continued on foot.

The pathway is cut along the face of the mountain, climbing in a meandering fashion through the trees that grow profusely there.  Suddenly, from the shaded groves, we came out into the sunlight and had the vista of the plateau laid out before us...

We walked on after taking the pictures, climbing all the way, until we found a small rock bench in the shade of an old, gnarled tree.  a few metres above us, we could see a donkey waiting patiently for anyone wishing to go back dow.  after a drink, and a little chocolate, we continued upward, and met the new pathway.  Now we could see the entrance to the cave ahead, and with renewed energy, we walked the last 20 metres to the admission booth.

Now I'll let the pictures do more than my words ever could...

There are many more images I want to share, and also some comments, links and emotions, as well as history.  for this reason, I'll close now so I don't bore you all to death, and will add a final addendum to our trip tomorrow.

for those of you who know the caves, you will appreciate how much there is to share: for those of you who don't: maybe I can spike your interest...until tomorrow.

Holiday Trip - the next installment.

Well, owing to illness, this post is a bit later than intended, but here's the next part of our adventure...

Having had a wonderful time at the convent, we all clambered back into the car with Bjorn at the wheel, and started the descent down onto the valley floor and into Mochos.  None of us had been before (and Thanks to Devon the tour rep for the tip) and what a surprise we got!

Entering through a typical narrow lane, we came to the main square.  The vista before us was stunning!  A cobbled, area, surrounded on all sides by bright, inviting Cafe/Restaurants and wonderful trees!

The girl at Odysseus restaurant pointed us to the little parking spaces beside their place, and we pulled in and parked up safely.

We decided that although it was only 11.45 we would get a mezi and a drink to gear us up for the Plateau.  As you can see, it was a glorious day with blue skies and a slight breeze, so we ordered our food and watched the world go by for a while...the food was marvellous and not overly expensive, so we all got a good taster of things we shared - Bjorn with omelette, Cheese Saganaki, lovely bread, chips,a plethora of dishes!

Having eaten our fill, we decided to wander around the village and headed across the square towards a butchers shop where we had been told we could get the superb local yoghurt (another tip from Devon!).
The woman spoke no English, but Aase has some Greek (better than mine) and between us all we managed to make our purchases...cheese and yoghurt for Aase, yoghurt and local honey for me.

Meandering back out, we found the boys across the street, deep in conversation and waiting for us to join them, so we wandered on around the corner on the Lassithi Plateau road...

As we walked, chatting amicably and sharing laughter, we spotted a small Kafeneon up ahead - literally metres from the square.  As we got level with the doorway and windows, we looked inside - and it blew us away!!

The whole place was decorated with small plaques of all the Cretan/Greek heroes!  From the uprisings against the Ottoman Empire, through all the Freedom and Death struggles, to the modern days - politicians and famous figures who fought by word and deed for Crete!

The place was amazing!  Owner Yorgus and his wife are in their Eighties, and we sat to have a Greek coffee with him.  Bjorn speaks quite good Greek, so he could translate a lot of what Yorgus told us, and we picked up pieces ourselves.  He had a peculiar kind of patois, using German and Italian numbers alongside his native tongue, but he told us, he had no English.  He did seem to understand us though!

some of the photos on the walls were of his family and himself (in full Cretan costume)  and he told us that his twin daughters now live in Thessaloniki where one is a doctor.  Immensely proud of them, he has their images among the heroes.  He also told us that not many tourists actually come in for a drink with him - they take pictures and walk out!  A criminal shame to my mind!  He was pleased as punch to pose for a photo...

Notice the gramophone?  There were things like this in cabinets and on display all around the cafe - including a 1950's jukebox (minus records).  As they talked and joked together, I wandered around, and it was then that I realised that all the chairs had mythical scenes on them too!

Yorgus told us that a friend had painted many of the pieces for him, and that newspapers had written articles about the place, but it wasn't helping his trade - the visitors stayed on the square...I hope this changes as the place was magical - even the working phone was a piece of Bakelite history!

After I had been told to serve another round of Raki, and we had eaten his grapes and cheese, we sadly bid Adios, with promises to return again to see him and his wife.  Walking back through some of the narrow lanes of the village, we made our way to the car to continue onwards and upwards!

As we began to climb out of the valley floor, we got some inkling of what was to come...

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And the next instalment - Homo Sapien Trickery, Statues,Windmills, Views and Mythology.
Stay tuned :)