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Tuesday 30 June 2015

Hard Times and Lonely Nights

I haven't posted anything for a while as to be quite honest, I haven't had much to say!

After my wonderful day out with Yvonne Payne and the gang, things got a bit quiet here in Elounda.  We seemed to have a bit of a dip, and although I had some wonderful surprises like loads of Jaffa Cakes (to which Les is now as addicted as me) - including wonderful gifts from Richard Rodgers and his missus of Stourport Designs -




things were slow.

john has gone back to England for a couple of months, and I've been missing him dreadfully, but I did get the chance to catch up with his daughter Lindsay and pal Paddy at the end of May...we had a wonderful meal at the Embassy in Ag. Nik, and then went to their fave bar 'The Zep'.
Good times had by all, and a taxi ride back to beloved Elounda!

The beginning of June was the beginning of all the hype in the papers, and it's pretty obvious the effect it has been having - the shame of it all being that nothing much has changed for any visitor, and most of the statements ( Emergency Evacuation/Banks closed/ATMs not working) is all blatantly untrue!

However, like all my Cretan friends, we keep smiling and are happy to see those visitors who still come.

The skies are blue, the waters clear and warm and the temperatures are starting to rise...summer is here and we're all looking onward and upward!

It's been a pleasure to meet up with friends old and new, and some of that took place in the UK.  for the first time in 3 1/2 years, I went back!
My grandchildren have grown so much, and all are doing well at school - Shannon will be taking her 'mocks' next, and Ashlyn is a delight as always!  Quin is a proper little bruiser - but such a sweetheart.  The only sadness was not having the time to catch up with Marian and Alanah - time and distance beat me on that one - but they are priority when I go back again.

My other big miss was Kelly and Dean...a stalwart friend and ally through the bad times in UK before we left, she has a wonderful, beautiful son - Jacob.  Next time my dear, next time.  However, I DID catch up with some of the Barrow crazies - the sons and my bestie Tracy...now THAT was a night ( and one the Robin Hood Karaoke is unlikely to forget!)
Now I'm back her in Elounda again, and settled into the new apartment with Les.  We had the proud moment of discovering that we have won the Certificate of Excellence 2015 from Trip Advisor, which we feel is a great achievement in just 4 Season - and we are delighted that people have found what we do here to be good enough to earn this...we'll keep going though to improve and update our shop and the services we offer - promise!

 Life goes on here as we wait for the referendum and whatever the Greek people decide.  For us, there is little we can influence, so we watch and wait - my concern is how long it will take to change all the prices of our books to Drachma if we must ha ha.  Seriously, this is a momentous time for Greece and Europe,and it's a strange feeling to be so close to it all yet so powerless...we just hope the future is bright for our beloved Greece...until next time. x



Sunday 3 May 2015

In the footsteps of Rodanthe: a circular hike through Kritsa Gorge.

1st May is a Bank Holiday here, so I took full advantage of this and did not open the shop.  My good friend Yvonne Payne had arranged to take a group of us out for a hike through Kritsa Gorge, and duly arrived to collect me from the bookshop at about 10a.m.

Leaving Les in the comfort of his bed in the bookshop, we drove over to Kritsa and waited in the car park for the rest of the group to arrive.  The weather was glorious and the view of the village as always was breathtaking...
 As the time to set off approached, the other members of our merry band started to arrive and be introduced to each other.  I was delighted to find that my old mate Cindy was to be joining us, along with 2 Steve's - henceforth known as Steve the Bug and Steve the Flower - a lovely retired botanist called Rosemary, and Ann  - a good friend of Yvonne and Alan's.  we were also joined by a couple who were here on holiday, and I'm ashamed to say I've forgotten their names!!

So, it was decided that rather than make the 20 minute trek on the road to the beginning of the gorge, we'd all hop in the cars and drive over.  In the blink of an eye, Alan managed to turn the wrong way out of the car park, and was heading down the one way street the wrong way!  Not an auspicious beginning, however with a few 'sorries' to the other drivers who had followed him, and some amazing gesticulations from supportive (?) wife Yvonne, we turned around and headed to the gorge via the legal route.

And on parking up, this was the first sight of the gorge...
It doesn't look so much from here, but I had a lot to learn at that point!

Instead of following the gorge from the bottom up, Yvonne and Alan were taking us on their preferred route, which is along the outside , then drops down to the gorge at the point where a footpath carries on to Tapes village...more on that later.

As we began to climb, the views were spectacular...
Our path took us up above Lato, and it was interesting to chat with Yvonne about Rodanthe from her book and get a feel for how the Freedom or Death fighters could have held out so long against the Ottoman armies...then you look around, and the modern world falls away.  All that is left is the sound of what Steve the Bug called the Capricorn Orchestra - a melodic mismatch of bells from the huge herd of goats, and a myriad of birdsong.
The trail was one which had existed since ancient times as a route from Lato, through the mountains and up onto Katharo plateau and Tapes.  The cobbled base was clearly visible, and though ancient easily navigable.
In my mind's eye, I could see the lookouts posted up in the surrounding hills, with commanding views of all the routes below, and out to the sea...there was no way an unfriendly force could get to Kritsa or beyond without having a 'welcome' planned!


After a while, the pathway was lost for several meters, and then it levelled out before dropping down toward the gorge base.  It was here we found ourselves amidst the goatherds, and the shepherd took them back from the groves where they had been devouring carob, and put them in their compound beside his house.
He had some rather alert and large dogs, so discretion dictated a shot from distance!
The two Steves were already in their element, looking for bugs and flowers as we walked along in the warm, bright sunlight.  Being passionate about their subjects, we were all at some point chasing something as we went along!  Steve the Flower actually takes walks onto Katharo Plateau and can be contacted via his website: - or you can learn more about the flora of our wonderful island from his other site :  both well worth a visit and the links are at the end of the blog

We began to pass some of the other walkers who had come up from the Gorge and were going back along the route we had already done, and it was with some trepidation I started to notice just how hot and bothered they seemed!

Now the descent began and the landscape began to change, with a harsher, more rugged appearance and more green vegetation and shrubs.  The pathway was still easy to follow however, and Steve the Flower spotted an orchid under the trees, which delighted him.  Having the benefit of him, Rosemary and Steve the Bug ensured that we all learnt from our experience in ways we probably would not have expected.  As the path wound down the hillside, it became clear just how high, and low we would be during the day.



slowly we made our way to the base of the gorge, and got ready to begin the walk back down to the outside world.  Suddenly, through breaks in the trees, there was a brilliant, almost blinding whiteness.  This was the gorge itself!  Gallons of water hurtle down through the gorge during the rains, and all along the bottom were smooth rounded stones, reflecting the rays of the sun with stark brightness that almost made you look away.
Yvonne told me that it was at this point that you could either continue up to Tapes, or turn out to follow the route we had come down.  I imagined Rodanthe from Yvonne's description, bouncing along the narrow path at the side of the riverbed in the panniers on her Grandmothers' donkey...not something I'd want to do methinks!

And now the hike began!


 If you would like to know more about the insects we saw and get Steve the Bugs' view of our trip, check out his blog at
http://cretenature.blogspot.co.uk/
and you can follow Yvonne Payne, author of 'Kritsotopoula Girl of Kritsa'  in her blog too! http://kritsayvonne.blogspot.com/
And there's Steve the Flower's web for the flower lovers among you:
http://www.cretanflora.com
or arrange a walk on Katharo Plateau -
http://www.exploringkatharo.com

I'll be back with more thrills, spills and anecdotes soon!





Friday 27 March 2015

End, Beginning and Hibernation!

Well, we are now moving through March and into April 2015.
We have finally come out of a really bad winter, and I have resurfaced to continue the Blog!  Where to start...let me see...

The end of last year saw us actually getting to spend some time with friends here in the village that we hardly saw during the season...that led to some wonderful moments in some marvellous places...sorry readers, but THIS one stays un-named!  We had some good times as you can see...





out and about in the late year sunshine, taking Les for long walks on idle days.
Christmas was a haze of nights out and food - a wonderful time to be had, although a lot of our friends were away on jaunts themselves.

The darts season began again, and due to circumstances, I ended up playing for Mario's Bar once more...an expense that I had wanted to avoid, but I have to say it was marvellous, and what great teammates I have!
As you will notice, we also had village support from Nikos at Alyggos, and Rudi's Bar too...shame the girls were all in MCFC blue ha ha.

As the year drew to a close with the olive picking in full swing (a bumper harvest this year) we found ourselves sharing sunsets and food with friends to say farewell to 2014.  As 2015 beckoned, it became clear that we needed another source of income to carry on here in Elounda, and our discussions changed to matters financial...

The solution finally came with an offer of work for John in UK which was just too good to resist, and plans began to be made...this was wearing on the old man...
okay, out of context a bit, but I couldn't resist it John!

We also got to see our friends at their best!






The new year brought with it some of the worst weather for decades.  Force 10 winds whipped the sea into a broiling wrecker, and the damage was immense to both property and the seafront.  Bitter winds and low temperatures actually gave us hailstones that turned the roads and beaches white for a couple of hours.  cold nights saw the village hunker down and everyone stay close to home where it was warm and cosy..

We also have been lashed with heavy rains, but this being Crete, it also has its' up side...spectacular rainbows coming almost daily for about 10 days.  their colours bright and sharp, often double or triple, and bathing the whole bay with their wonder!





As the time grew closer for John to go away, we were making plans for the shop and trying to get all the works done - this wasn't easy with the bad weather, but John got the new steps and risers fitted, and we got good old Ziggy to come and take a look at the lighting and what we wanted to do.

So now, 6 weeks here on my own, and the weather has improved somewhat!  The winds have moved back to coming from the South, and the air is warm - if a little dusty from the Sahara.  all around the village there is work going on as places repair and refurbish for the new Season, and places are opening up after their well-earned breaks.

Soon, the place will be buzzing with new visitors and awash with shops selling the bright and gay souvenirs and the new bars will be plying their trade - a bigger and better Billy's bar now opening beside Mam and Ariadnes, Ergospasio's new Kafeneon  beside the sea, Mario's Bar back with a bang for their party night, Rady's opening celebrations and me...grand opening of the 4th Season on the 6th April.

It's going to be odd doing this without John here with his sensible, practical head to keep me from going away with the fairies, but we'll manage.  Calls every night keep things real for me and help him to understand what's going on...and it's not long until 16th when he's coming home!  the down side is he'll miss my birthday and our 5th Wedding Anniversary, but we'll make up for it when he's home...we may even close for a day!

Well, the blog is back, and I have to say a MASSIVE thanks to all the supporters of this and the Facebook site.  I'm pleased and proud to tell you that the Blog has been nominated for blog of the year by Yvonne Payne, so if you want to find out more about it, and maybe vote for us, here's thelink... http://kritsayvonne.com/2015/03/27/versatile-blogger-award/versatileblogger11

More will follow right through the season folks, and I hope to see you here on the balcony for a cuppa and a chat during 2015.  whatever you do, wherever you go, have a wonderful 2015 and BRING ON THE SUN!