Hard Times and Lonely Nights

I haven't posted anything for a while as to be quite honest, I haven't had much to say!

After my wonderful day out with Yvonne Payne and the gang, things got a bit quiet here in Elounda.  We seemed to have a bit of a dip, and although I had some wonderful surprises like loads of Jaffa Cakes (to which Les is now as addicted as me) - including wonderful gifts from Richard Rodgers and his missus of Stourport Designs -

things were slow.

john has gone back to England for a couple of months, and I've been missing him dreadfully, but I did get the chance to catch up with his daughter Lindsay and pal Paddy at the end of May...we had a wonderful meal at the Embassy in Ag. Nik, and then went to their fave bar 'The Zep'.

Good times had by all, and a taxi ride back to beloved Elounda!

The beginning of June was the beginning of all the hype in the papers, and it's pretty obvious the effect it has been having - the shame of it all being that nothing much has changed for any visitor, and most of the statements ( Emergency Evacuation/Banks closed/ATMs not working) is all blatantly untrue!

However, like all my Cretan friends, we keep smiling and are happy to see those visitors who still come.

The skies are blue, the waters clear and warm and the temperatures are starting to rise...summer is here and we're all looking onward and upward!

It's been a pleasure to meet up with friends old and new, and some of that took place in the UK.  for the first time in 3 1/2 years, I went back!
My grandchildren have grown so much, and all are doing well at school - Shannon will be taking her 'mocks' next, and Ashlyn is a delight as always!  Quin is a proper little bruiser - but such a sweetheart.  The only sadness was not having the time to catch up with Marian and Alanah - time and distance beat me on that one - but they are priority when I go back again.

My other big miss was Kelly and Dean...a stalwart friend and ally through the bad times in UK before we left, she has a wonderful, beautiful son - Jacob.  Next time my dear, next time.  However, I DID catch up with some of the Barrow crazies - the sons and my bestie Tracy...now THAT was a night ( and one the Robin Hood Karaoke is unlikely to forget!)
Now I'm back her in Elounda again, and settled into the new apartment with Les.  We had the proud moment of discovering that we have won the Certificate of Excellence 2015 from Trip Advisor, which we feel is a great achievement in just 4 Season - and we are delighted that people have found what we do here to be good enough to earn this...we'll keep going though to improve and update our shop and the services we offer - promise!

 Life goes on here as we wait for the referendum and whatever the Greek people decide.  For us, there is little we can influence, so we watch and wait - my concern is how long it will take to change all the prices of our books to Drachma if we must ha ha.  Seriously, this is a momentous time for Greece and Europe,and it's a strange feeling to be so close to it all yet so powerless...we just hope the future is bright for our beloved Greece...until next time. x

In the footsteps of Rodanthe: a circular hike through Kritsa Gorge.

1st May is a Bank Holiday here, so I took full advantage of this and did not open the shop.  My good friend Yvonne Payne had arranged to take a group of us out for a hike through Kritsa Gorge, and duly arrived to collect me from the bookshop at about 10a.m.

Leaving Les in the comfort of his bed in the bookshop, we drove over to Kritsa and waited in the car park for the rest of the group to arrive.  The weather was glorious and the view of the village as always was breathtaking...

 As the time to set off approached, the other members of our merry band started to arrive and be introduced to each other.  I was delighted to find that my old mate Cindy was to be joining us, along with 2 Steve's - henceforth known as Steve the Bug and Steve the Flower - a lovely retired botanist called Rosemary, and Ann  - a good friend of Yvonne and Alan's.  we were also joined by a couple who were here on holiday, and I'm ashamed to say I've forgotten their names!!

So, it was decided that rather than make the 20 minute trek on the road to the beginning of the gorge, we'd all hop in the cars and drive over.  In the blink of an eye, Alan managed to turn the wrong way out of the car park, and was heading down the one way street the wrong way!  Not an auspicious beginning, however with a few 'sorries' to the other drivers who had followed him, and some amazing gesticulations from supportive (?) wife Yvonne, we turned around and headed to the gorge via the legal route.

And on parking up, this was the first sight of the gorge...

It doesn't look so much from here, but I had a lot to learn at that point!

Instead of following the gorge from the bottom up, Yvonne and Alan were taking us on their preferred route, which is along the outside , then drops down to the gorge at the point where a footpath carries on to Tapes village...more on that later.

As we began to climb, the views were spectacular...

Our path took us up above Lato, and it was interesting to chat with Yvonne about Rodanthe from her book and get a feel for how the Freedom or Death fighters could have held out so long against the Ottoman armies...then you look around, and the modern world falls away.  All that is left is the sound of what Steve the Bug called the Capricorn Orchestra - a melodic mismatch of bells from the huge herd of goats, and a myriad of birdsong.
The trail was one which had existed since ancient times as a route from Lato, through the mountains and up onto Katharo plateau and Tapes.  The cobbled base was clearly visible, and though ancient easily navigable.
In my mind's eye, I could see the lookouts posted up in the surrounding hills, with commanding views of all the routes below, and out to the sea...there was no way an unfriendly force could get to Kritsa or beyond without having a 'welcome' planned!

After a while, the pathway was lost for several meters, and then it levelled out before dropping down toward the gorge base.  It was here we found ourselves amidst the goatherds, and the shepherd took them back from the groves where they had been devouring carob, and put them in their compound beside his house.
He had some rather alert and large dogs, so discretion dictated a shot from distance!

The two Steves were already in their element, looking for bugs and flowers as we walked along in the warm, bright sunlight.  Being passionate about their subjects, we were all at some point chasing something as we went along!  Steve the Flower actually takes walks onto Katharo Plateau and can be contacted via his website: - or you can learn more about the flora of our wonderful island from his other site :  both well worth a visit and the links are at the end of the blog

We began to pass some of the other walkers who had come up from the Gorge and were going back along the route we had already done, and it was with some trepidation I started to notice just how hot and bothered they seemed!

Now the descent began and the landscape began to change, with a harsher, more rugged appearance and more green vegetation and shrubs.  The pathway was still easy to follow however, and Steve the Flower spotted an orchid under the trees, which delighted him.  Having the benefit of him, Rosemary and Steve the Bug ensured that we all learnt from our experience in ways we probably would not have expected.  As the path wound down the hillside, it became clear just how high, and low we would be during the day.

slowly we made our way to the base of the gorge, and got ready to begin the walk back down to the outside world.  Suddenly, through breaks in the trees, there was a brilliant, almost blinding whiteness.  This was the gorge itself!  Gallons of water hurtle down through the gorge during the rains, and all along the bottom were smooth rounded stones, reflecting the rays of the sun with stark brightness that almost made you look away.
Yvonne told me that it was at this point that you could either continue up to Tapes, or turn out to follow the route we had come down.  I imagined Rodanthe from Yvonne's description, bouncing along the narrow path at the side of the riverbed in the panniers on her Grandmothers' donkey...not something I'd want to do methinks!

And now the hike began!

 If you would like to know more about the insects we saw and get Steve the Bugs' view of our trip, check out his blog at
http://cretenature.blogspot.co.uk/
and you can follow Yvonne Payne, author of 'Kritsotopoula Girl of Kritsa'  in her blog too! http://kritsayvonne.blogspot.com/
And there's Steve the Flower's web for the flower lovers among you:
http://www.cretanflora.com
or arrange a walk on Katharo Plateau -
http://www.exploringkatharo.com

I'll be back with more thrills, spills and anecdotes soon!

End, Beginning and Hibernation!

Well, we are now moving through March and into April 2015.
We have finally come out of a really bad winter, and I have resurfaced to continue the Blog!  Where to start...let me see...

The end of last year saw us actually getting to spend some time with friends here in the village that we hardly saw during the season...that led to some wonderful moments in some marvellous places...sorry readers, but THIS one stays un-named!  We had some good times as you can see...

out and about in the late year sunshine, taking Les for long walks on idle days.
Christmas was a haze of nights out and food - a wonderful time to be had, although a lot of our friends were away on jaunts themselves.

The darts season began again, and due to circumstances, I ended up playing for Mario's Bar once more...an expense that I had wanted to avoid, but I have to say it was marvellous, and what great teammates I have!

As you will notice, we also had village support from Nikos at Alyggos, and Rudi's Bar too...shame the girls were all in MCFC blue ha ha.

As the year drew to a close with the olive picking in full swing (a bumper harvest this year) we found ourselves sharing sunsets and food with friends to say farewell to 2014.  As 2015 beckoned, it became clear that we needed another source of income to carry on here in Elounda, and our discussions changed to matters financial...

The solution finally came with an offer of work for John in UK which was just too good to resist, and plans began to be made...this was wearing on the old man...

okay, out of context a bit, but I couldn't resist it John!

We also got to see our friends at their best!

The new year brought with it some of the worst weather for decades.  Force 10 winds whipped the sea into a broiling wrecker, and the damage was immense to both property and the seafront.  Bitter winds and low temperatures actually gave us hailstones that turned the roads and beaches white for a couple of hours.  cold nights saw the village hunker down and everyone stay close to home where it was warm and cosy..

We also have been lashed with heavy rains, but this being Crete, it also has its' up side...spectacular rainbows coming almost daily for about 10 days.  their colours bright and sharp, often double or triple, and bathing the whole bay with their wonder!

As the time grew closer for John to go away, we were making plans for the shop and trying to get all the works done - this wasn't easy with the bad weather, but John got the new steps and risers fitted, and we got good old Ziggy to come and take a look at the lighting and what we wanted to do.

So now, 6 weeks here on my own, and the weather has improved somewhat!  The winds have moved back to coming from the South, and the air is warm - if a little dusty from the Sahara.  all around the village there is work going on as places repair and refurbish for the new Season, and places are opening up after their well-earned breaks.

Soon, the place will be buzzing with new visitors and awash with shops selling the bright and gay souvenirs and the new bars will be plying their trade - a bigger and better Billy's bar now opening beside Mam and Ariadnes, Ergospasio's new Kafeneon  beside the sea, Mario's Bar back with a bang for their party night, Rady's opening celebrations and me...grand opening of the 4th Season on the 6th April.

It's going to be odd doing this without John here with his sensible, practical head to keep me from going away with the fairies, but we'll manage.  Calls every night keep things real for me and help him to understand what's going on...and it's not long until 16th when he's coming home!  the down side is he'll miss my birthday and our 5th Wedding Anniversary, but we'll make up for it when he's home...we may even close for a day!

Well, the blog is back, and I have to say a MASSIVE thanks to all the supporters of this and the Facebook site.  I'm pleased and proud to tell you that the Blog has been nominated for blog of the year by Yvonne Payne, so if you want to find out more about it, and maybe vote for us, here's thelink... http://kritsayvonne.com/2015/03/27/versatile-blogger-award/

More will follow right through the season folks, and I hope to see you here on the balcony for a cuppa and a chat during 2015.  whatever you do, wherever you go, have a wonderful 2015 and BRING ON THE SUN!

Winter Wondering...

This has been a bit of a weird month, and hopefully, the Winter will keep us both busy!

As always, we have dropped back to short hours for the winter, opening usually just at the weekends, however it all went a bit pear-shaped!

The wooden steps leading down onto the balcony from the road were in need of replacement, and we had decided to do them over the winter and then...poor Jon Walton broke one!  It gave us a ll a real scare I can tell you!  Luckily he wasn't hurt, but my John decided the replacement had to go ahead NOW - and they all had to be done.  so, he taped off the top and bottom, so they couldn't be used, and we got the assistance of Ziggy to order and collect the wood for us.

It's taken 2 weeks of painting, and John and Ziggy spending all day to install them, but they are done now and look brilliant!

As you can see, we now have risers on the steps to give them a much better look, and some extra strength, but poor John has been painting like a fool for days!  Each piece has had 2 coats of primer, and the main steps had 3 coats of colour!  a mammoth task!

They are still closed off to allow some of the sealant used in fixing them in place to dry, but they will be unveiled this week.

Also this month, we were kindly invited by newest members of the community, Geoff and Vera, to visit their home for dinner.  what a fabulous night - and stonking good food (including a goulash!).
We then all met up again the other night at Kaaren's closing party.  Tim and Karen are off to their winter work shortly, and they threw a bash for a few of us.  As always with these two, the food was amazing, and nothing was spared.  We had a splendid time, and JR found the chilli - he loves it - just like last year!

The lovely smiler is Vera!

We are now in the Wedding/Engagement times, and it's wonderful to hear all the car horns sounding as the newly weds travel to their wedding do's, and we know a few o the couples who have/will be tying the knot!

Although today is 1st December (Kalo Mina - good month - to all)  it's a wonderful balmy day with temps around 20* and Les and I will be heading back around the harbour later for a stroll.  He's here in the shop, much to his dismay, patiently waiting for me to finish the jobs I have to do.  He's in fine form and we are now planning a few outings for us all - both locally and further afield.  We've been lucky enough to be offered the use of a car, so maybe Zakros is on the agenda??  we shall see, but we are hoping to take Geoff and Vera up onto Lassithi plateau, following our adventures with Bjorn and Aase - we hope we can do what they did for us!

We have some Xmas cards arrived in the shop, and I've sent a few back to UK.  For the most part, we don't do them much, as we end up sending all the stock!I still have one to send to Fran, but I want to get some pics of Les first...long story, but I want my Earl Grey, and Les wants his snacks hehehe...

As the winter unfolds, I hope to keep adding bits and pieces, and will have some pics and comments from Christmas Day I'm sure, but for now, I'll sign off with a link to the nicest walnut cake recipe (and it's easy because I can make it)!
http://www.mygreekdish.com/recipe/karidopita-greek-walnut-cake-with-syrup

Links, Legends and Love...

 As promised, I want to close out the road trip with some links and views.  I've put some links to various sites at the bottom of the blog, including one for the Eklektos page on Facebook - please feel free to jump in and have a look at some of the photos there that I haven't used in the blog, as well as all the other images...

The legend of Zeus and the caves has many versions, as with most mythology, but I like the version I was told by one of our Cretan friends...
Now, Chronos was the father of the Gods - a Titan, the youngest child of Uranus and Gaia (the goddess of the earth/mother Earth) and a terrible being - quick to anger and slow to forgive. He murdered his own father and the blood that  fell in the sea, causing it to foam, and from this foam emerged the beautiful goddess of love, Aphrodite.  Chronos took his sister Rhea as his wife and queen. An oracle warned him that his own son would kill him, just as he had killed Uranus, and so Chronos determined that there would be no living children.

Whenever Rhea gave birth, Chronos swallowed the child, until Rhea despaired.  When her last child Zeus was born, she tricked her husband and gave him a stone instead of the child.  She hid Zeus in the caves on Mount Dikti in Crete, in the care of Amalpha the goat , where he was raised in secret, way from the eyes of his father.

Eventually, Zeus grew to manhood, and returned to challenge his father.  according to Cretan legend, Zeus and Chronos fought, and Zeus killed his father, slitting him open from throat to groin.  as he died, the children he had eaten - Zeus brothers and sisters, all fell out rom inside alive - he had not chewed his food! 

This, the Cretans say, was the beginings of the Gods of Olympus - ,Demeter, Hades, Poseidon, Hera and many others... 

As a child, I loved the ancient myths, and I also loved films, so the tales of Jason and the Argonauts, Troy, the Odyssey, all these were burnt into my imagination and began my love of fantasy - Dragons, wizards, and magic..To go down into this ancient cave, and see how the rocks had alsmot human shapes: the impression was awesome!  But I have another love - history and these caves and the plateau have an abundance of it!

Archeologists excavating the caves have found signs of an altar, and many ancient artifacts were unearthed, which suggest that the cave waas a holy place of worship and offering for centuries - you'll be able to read more on this through the links.

But the plateau for centuries was the bread basket for the province - the supply of water which allowed the growing of crops and raising of animals, made this whole plateau a vital part of Crete.  As such, every invader wanted to control it, and the Cretans were neverof a mind to allow it!

There are weighty tomes on the history of Crete and its invaders, but there are also some new works about to be published that will give a new, more exciting read.  As they come out, I'll blog about it all next year, but watch out for books by Yvonne Payne...

Being involved with a bookshop means that I have been able to read a lot about this place that we call home, and the internet is a valuable source of other material, but to actually go and experience this land is now vital and paramount!  To feel the cool air as you descend into the mythical early home of Zeus: touch stones worm smotth by the hands of ancient worshippers and priests: to see the coins still being thrown into rock pools by todays' visitors...atmospheric, etherial, almost spiritual emotions made this trip something I will always treasure. 

 Meeting Yorgus in his Kafeneon, watching his elderly wife making coffee, with fingers blackened by work and fire...seeing the flashing pride of a man, now bowing with age, as he tells you of his life, his family and his pride in both...Yorgus - proprietor, mountain man of Crete, fighter, farmer and father - a rare privelige to meet such a man.

At every turn there was something - a view, a sight,another wonderous moment.  It's hard to express what has moved me so much - so hard to portray to you, dear reader what a magical place this small piece of this wonderful island is  to round a corner and see, amid the ruins of ancient windmills that drew water from the ground, a small, stunning chapel, brilliantly white in the sun...perhaps I have piqued your curiosity - perhaps you should come and see for yourself...

Yes, this was a day, but a day of contrast, contradictions, wonder and amazement...but such is Crete - that's why we call it home, and why we are so determined to stay on this island that has stolen our hearts and souls.

"I hope for nothing. I fear nothing. I am free."

Nikos Katzanzakis 

 https://www.facebook.com/EklektosBooks
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cronus
www.explorecrete.com/crete-east/lassithi-plateau.html
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oropedio_Lasithiou

www.greeka.com  › Crete  › Lassithi  › Sightseeing

www.lonelyplanet.com/.../natural-landmarks/dikteon-cave

en.wikigogo.org/en/49347

 https://www.facebook.com/groups/lassithilovers 

  

Appointment with Zeus...

Here is the final instalment of out journey!

Having said Adio to Yorgus and settled back in the car on the square in Mochos, we headed out of the town towards the Lassithi plateau Travelling along the valley floor, we looked out at the majestic mountain ranges that surrounded us, and at the road we had to travel.  some amazing sights met us along the way.

As we began to climb into the mountains, we began to get some idea of the way we had come and the wild beauty of our adopted home.  although the land is mostly dry in the summer heat, the staggering power of nature to enhance and flourish in theis climate is easily visible.  And Man's efforts to try to tame this island were also self evident as we looked back towards the convent and the village far below.

As we sttod in the lay by taking these pictures, another car pulled in to admire the panorama laid out.  The couple who were from Russia, fell into converstaion with Bjorn and John.  the lovely lady spoke marvellous English, which was very lucky, as none of us can speak any Russian!  We shared the joys of what was laid out before us, and then walked towards our seperate vehicles.  It was then that I spotted something on the hillside above us.  Using the zoom on my camera, it became clear it was some working traditional windmills!
To my delight, bjorn informed us that the road we were taking would pass very close to them, so we decided we would investigate...

As the road wound its way up the steep mountain, I found myself wondering at the enormity of what had been done - in history, the farmers, shepherds and holy men who traversed these treaherous mountains with only goat paths to follow:  the Andartes against the Ottomans and other invaders:  and in more recent times, the men who strove to cut roadways through this imperial landscape...amazing feats of courage, endurance and imagination!  What inspiration for us all to take from the population of this 5th largest island of the Mediterranean.

suddenly, we were right beneath the windmills!  As we rounded the next bend in the road, we saw a signpost about Homo spaien Village, so we took the turning...

Imagine our surprise at finding this signage on the cafe at the car park as we clambered out of the car...

Quite an impressive statement of intent.  However...now, I'm probably a bit cynical, and while I realise that everyone has to make a living, there's a limit to even my suspension of belief!  While John went to peruse the shop and cafe, and Aase went to find the ladies, Bjorn and I wanted to take a closer look at the windmills (which were happily pumping water down into a trough in the car park.)

We found a sign pointing the way, and walked through a tunnel cut into the rock, with olive trees set into the roof as if shoring it up.  as we rounded the corner, we could see the entrance to the Homo Sapien Village through some gates to our left, and the balcony floor of the cafe to our right.  The path continued past a small sentry-like box, up to the windmills, so we turned that way...

Suddenly, a balding Greek spoke to us  and smiled: 'three euros each please.'  We stopped and looked at him, a little puzzled.
Bjorn smiled and spoke up for us.  'No, we aren't going to the village, just the windmills.'
'Three euros please.  Same price.' , replied the man (still smiling, but it started to look kind of waxy!)
'Oh, sorry we misunderstood', replied Bjorn, and we both in unison turned and walked back down the tunnel!

As I say, I'm all in favour of the entrepreneur spirit, but there was no signs to say there was an entrance fee for the windmills, and it was all VERY carefully set up.  however, we got our pictures from the car park instead, and then left!

 

 

Once more we continued up through the mountains, passing the ruins of mills as we reached the pass into Lassithi plateau.  There was a cafe there, but seeing the large coaches parked, we decided to continue on. I had been warned that most of the windmills that the valley floor was famous for (it's nickname was Valley of A Thousand Windmills) had gone:  I wasn't prepared to see the sadly neglected and derelict sight that we saw.  there are maybe one or two windmills still in working order, and those few are either at cafes, or at the approach to the Dichtian Cave.
We had arrived.  We decanted from the car in the park at the base of the climb, and prepared for the walk.  there is a new route, but Aase felt we should use the older, more original pathway, so we did.  The path is made of cobbles, laid into huge steps.  In many places, the rocks have worn smooth with the passing of so many feet, and there is evidence of the erosion of time and weather.  After the first few metres, we saw the donkeys that offer to take visitors up to the cave site, but we declined, and continued on foot.

The pathway is cut along the face of the mountain, climbing in a meandering fashion through the trees that grow profusely there.  Suddenly, from the shaded groves, we came out into the sunlight and had the vista of the plateau laid out before us...

We walked on after taking the pictures, climbing all the way, until we found a small rock bench in the shade of an old, gnarled tree.  a few metres above us, we could see a donkey waiting patiently for anyone wishing to go back dow.  after a drink, and a little chocolate, we continued upward, and met the new pathway.  Now we could see the entrance to the cave ahead, and with renewed energy, we walked the last 20 metres to the admission booth.

Now I'll let the pictures do more than my words ever could...

There are many more images I want to share, and also some comments, links and emotions, as well as history.  for this reason, I'll close now so I don't bore you all to death, and will add a final addendum to our trip tomorrow.

for those of you who know the caves, you will appreciate how much there is to share: for those of you who don't: maybe I can spike your interest...until tomorrow.